![]() ![]() I'll post more issues as I find things out. Left channel no illnesses, however I know that for the past 10+ years this amp has been used as a sub amp in bridged more. Question2: Should I replace the TIP102 + emitters in the right channel seeing as the TIP107 bank had issues? Should I replace the emitter resistors when I change the TIP107s? Looks like the previous failure only required about half the TIP107 to be changed (Mismatching now) and did not take out any of the emitter resistors, but of course with the MPSA14 being replaced I'm just hesitant about anything in this area. Question1: On the TIP107s in the right channel. Needs some cleaning and TLCĪgain, the amp barely working and since the switches and gains need replacement I pulled the board (Thats when I found the TIP107 mismatch as well) General condition of the amp guts is fair. TIP107 in right channel mis-matched - Will replace with sequential ST brand unitsĪLL the switches sound like garbage and need replacementĪt least the gain pots sound like nails on a chalkboard and need replacementīoth 10w snubbers need to be re-attached and secured Right channel MPSA14 under the board was badly soldered not even sure if all 3 legs were attached Q75 and Q76 were replaced or re-soldered using OE parts soundstream rubicon amplifier 1000d Rub1.1000d Excellent Working Condition soundstream rubicon amplifier 1000d Rub1.1000d Excellent Working. Right channel using mis-match TIP107 (ST and original mix) This amp works on the bench for the most part, but here are the previous repairs and also current issues: Thats the intention.Another SS on my bench today. Run on tweeters above 3kHz and it'll probably work fine. Also the 4-amp breakers are probably not enough as the amp made 5.5A at speaker terminals while drawing 37A from the bench which is probably too much for just the two PS fets. ![]() 540W RMS + 460W RMS x 1 5-Channel A/B Class Reference Series Car Audio Amplifier. I may go back in and put drive circuits on replacement IRF3205 fets at a later point. Shop Lowest Price on: Soundstream REF5.1000 5 Channel System Amplifiers. The part that'll possibly bite me is if load crashes the rail voltage as there is no rail headroom now so it'll clip from rail drop likely first. ![]() I'm guessing this part is similar for say a Reference 1000 which runs much higher rail voltage. So I replaced R43 and R44 with 2k resistors. I put a potentiometer in place of R43 and adjusted until both the preamp and the amp clips at the same point. I noticed the signal on one side was about the same as the output pins from the U1 opamp, but the other side which led to the driver board was a LOT lower by less than about half. On the 200S, R43 and R44 are 4.7k resistors one for each channel. Would I need to modify R2 and R3 instead? I believe those are on the driver cards. I tried fiddling with the voltage divider after UC1 (Pin 8) at R42 and R43 which on this amp was a 620/1.2k set, to 47/4.7k and that helped a little - but not by much. The regulated/opamp outputs will clip before the amplifier drive and output circuit.īeen looking at the 300/300S schematic so the following is in reference to that amp. I cant get the clipping point to come up much further on the output though. I know the opamps are going to clip while and always, where +-18vDC did help lift the point of clip, but not enough for the rest of the amp. Database contains 1 Soundstream Reference Series 1000S Manuals (available for free online viewing or downloading in PDF): Installation manual. For regulated voltage, I replaced the 16v zeners with 18v units and now the regulated circuit runs about +-18.5vDC (Which helped boost clipping point on the pre-amp). Amp now runs +-44vDC rail whereas before it was only +-22. I've re-wound the transformer for twice the rail voltage. Im trying to go where no man has gone before - that is mess around with an old Soundstream Reference 200S amp. ![]()
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